top of page
  • Writer's pictureDIYTechnician

DIY Deck Building and Installing Deck Railings Tutorials

Don't want to build from scratch? Try these Lowe's Pre-fabricated Rail Sections

This pre-fabricated deck railing set up was purchased at Lowe's. It was a little more than I wanted to pay and wasn't completely top quality but it was able to be constructed quickly and effectively fit the billet of having a deck rail in place on this second story outside deck. The reason I needed a new deck was because the old one had been attacked by carpenter ants in many places so after exterminating all of the carpenter ants I removed the old deck. It made for some good dry backyard bonfire wood. I then took perimeter measurements and figured out how much deck rail I would need. This pre-fabbed railing was a little more than I really wanted to pay so I didn't want to overestimate. I got my materials home and then kind of layer it out to so I could get a visual on how it went together. The first step in construction was to install the 4 X4 posts. I secured them to the outside of the deck with lag bolts, of course, pre-drilling them before sinking the lag bolt in. Since I was a one man show I was able to clamp them into place before permanently securing them. I used two lag bolts per post. Same goes for the rails. I roughly fit them up before securing them. Pre-drilled the holes then used weather proof drywall screws to hold them in. I pre-drilled the holes using a bit slightly smaller than the screw itself. Since each rail section was a set length I ended up having to trim a little off of one. I measured twice to make sure I had the correct length. I used my hand held power saw to whack the extra part off. Overall this deck rail was super easy to install and had it done in just a few hours as I took my time installing it. The pro's are that is was quick to install, it looked attractive and matched the design of the house, was plenty sturdy (sturdy enough to lean against), the wood was already pre-stained, and was very simple to install by myself. The only negatives were that I wish the wood was a little thicker on the rails themselves and the other is that this set up wasn't conducive to a simple gutter system if you wanted to put one on.

Here's a link on amazon for the quick grip clamps I used here. I use these for a number projects as well:

Paid amazon link to Quick Grip Clamps:

How to Build a Front Deck Rail in No Time Flat-Cheap, Quick, and Easy From Scratch

Never built a deck rail before? Looking for a simple yet country looking design? Or just need a quick deck rail built? The first thing I did was take my length measurements from post to post and put together a material list based on these measurements. I did this by first taking measurements, then adding it all up. I bought all the wood from Lowe's. I set up and used my chop saw for all my cuts. I cut the 2 X 4's for the length of the post to post distance. I pre-drilled the holes in this too so the wood would not split when I sunk the securing screws into the horizontal to the vertical. Before sinking the screws in I used my level to ensure it was level across the top on the horizontal. Once level I sunk in the screws. Then I measured and cut the upper and lower (front) horizontal 1" X 4" board. Essentially this sandwiches the bannisters. After cutting and installing of the upper and lower 1" X 4" boards I started nailing the in the bannisters. I installed the 1 X 4's using 90 degree angle brackets after tacking them in with my brad nailer. You'll need to cut them to length if you haven't done so already. I bought these all at a cut standard length. In order to get equal spacing on all of the bannisters I cut a jig (go/no-go) piece of wood that all I had to do was hold it up there and nail in my banister. No measuring involved at all and made for quick placement. Once all of the bannisters were successfully nailed in place I then created the other part of the bannister sandwich by installing the opposite side 1" X 4" and nailed in using brad nailer. Then I was done. We ended up painting this but they look really good stained as well. They will also last longer if you stain them. I repeated this for every section in between posts and then I was done.

Tools needed for the job (paid amazon links):

Cordless Drill:

90 degree Angle brackets:

DIY Slippery Wood Deck Solution-What to do about a Slick Porch or Deck

Simple cheap and easy solution for remedying the safety hazard of a slippery deck or porch. Decks get super slick during the winter months and can be fatal. Check out how to decrease your chances of a catastrophic fall for super cheap. The ECO rug from Lowe's or Home Depot is just over $20 and can be rolled out in no time flat over the surface of the porch or deck. It's fully penetrable so it will not collect water and is also made from recycled water bottles. This is the best way to give you the grip you need to so don't take a bad spill as many people do.

Here's a 6' X 9' one (paid amazon link):

DIY Farmhouse Style Pallet Wood Deck with Repurposed Treated Wood Fence Post Cut Offs

Cheap and easy DIY Farmhouse Style Pallet Wood Deck with Repurposed Treated Wood Fence Post Cut Offs [Pallet Deck] "How to" style instructional step by step tutorial. The first thing I did was dig out the area a little bit so I could place my bricks level as well as the correct depth so the top of the deck would be the same height at the porch. While digging this out I made a very cool find. An old axe head!! Looking forward to the refurb on it. Once I got the area dug out I placed the bricks for all four corners at the correct depth as well as level. Then I put the old treated wood fence post cut offs in place on top of the bricks as the foundation. I then made sure they were square before I tacked them in with a brad nailer simply to hold them in place enough to start placing the pallet slats on top for the decking. Now it was time to measure and cut the pallet slats for the cross members for the the top decking. Once the pallets slats were all installed I installed some border trim on the edges for edge protection as well as a more finished look. Then it was basically done aside from filling the dirt back in around it and staining it. I used some used motor oil as stain and it gave it a nice look. I always like the idea of reusing old materials that may have otherwise gone to the landfill and reusing them giving them a fresh and useful new life.

Woodworker's Treasure Chest:

Some of the tools I used (paid links):

SKILSAW SPT77W-01 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Aluminum Worm Drive Circular Saw:

DEWALT Sliding Compound Miter Saw, 12-Inch (DWS779):

2 views0 comments


bottom of page