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Unboxing, assembling and using this new RYOBI 10 Table Saw with Folding Stand. DIY "How-to" Tutorial Demonstration on this fine power tool purchased from Lowe's. I needed a new one of these for my many DIY projects. I got tired of trying to rip boards with my handsaw. This is 100 times better. Below is a picture gallery along with a step by step description of the assembly of the new saw starting with the unboxing.
I actually stopped by harbor freight to see what they had there and also what there prices were. All they had left in the the store was a single table saw and it was some off brand I'd never heard of before and they wanted too much for what it was (more than what I paid for this saw). So I bumped over to Lowe's, saw this (no pun intended) and bought it. It's working out really well so far and I've used it a ton. I will say, I've tried to see how thick of a piece of wood I can cut with a 10" blade and it will not fully cut through a 4 X 4 treated piece of fence post. It gets close but won't cut all the way though the depth of it in the fully raised position so I'd say you are limited to a thickness of less than 4" but probably not too much over 3 1/4" roughly.
Here is a picture of the stand frame with it's legs sitting in the styrofoam packing along with the stand legs.
The saw comes with a blade guard that will keep your board from kicking back. It's made of plastic and can seem to be a hinderance when sawing some things but it's actually a nice safety mechanism for this saw. To get started I pulled the parts all out and played them out. There are two sides to the stand that are slightly different from each other. One is made to be the front of the saw. It goes together very nice.
The saw comes with a hard plastic board pusher which I use all the time and well as a miter and spanner wrenches for blade change out.
The next step I did was put the legs of the stand together to form an "X" pattern. I used these two bolt and nut combinations. It's nice that the nuts came pre-threaded onto the bolt so you don't have to sift around.
The portion of the stand shown on the left has an additional parallel horizontal cross member that distinguishes it from it's counterpart. The legs of the one without the additional horizontal cross member go above the lower horizontal cross member of the dual cross member portion of the stand.
This helps lock it in and, by design, keeps the top brackets flat for proper leveling and table saw installation.
You can see this will make the top brackets aligned in the same direction and will eventually be flat and level to facilitate table saw installation.
Here's a shot of the nuts and bolts that will get inserted through the sides of the table saw stand.
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The holes of both sides of the stand are pre-drilled to naturally align for insertion of the securing bolt.
Once the bolts were inserted in both sides it was time to install the nut onto the bolt. I noticed the nut had a little bit of self locking material on it. Not a tremendous amount but appeared to be just enough so it wouldn't rattle off during table saw operations and moving the table and stand around.
You can use a couple of crescent wrenches to tighten these bolts. I think they were 1/2".
Bolts and nuts installed. Fully tightened down. Now it's time to put the legs of the stand on to raise it up higher.
I took the stand and flipped it over on it's top for ease of leg installation.
This shows the 4 table saw stand legs to be installed.
These are the 4 nut/bolt combinations that will be used to secure the legs to the stand.
There is only one height setting for the legs so all you have to do is line up the holes and place the bolt through them.
Getting started putting all the legs into the stand with the long portion of the plastic piece facing outward.
This is a shot of the holes of the legs lining up with the holes on the stand. I did have one leg that the holes were slightly incorrectly drilled. I was quite surprised and though it was an error on my part. I even tried to put the mis-drilled leg on all the other different portions of the stand. Three out of the four lined up perfectly. I had to slightly ream out the hole in order to get the bolt to go through it.
This is showing the bolt and nut securing the leg to the stand.
I used my socket and ratchet combo for the left side.
Used a 1/2" box ended combination wrench to apply counter-torque to the opposite side.
After installing all four legs I flipped the stand back over and was pleasantly surprised at exactly how level it was as well as it's sturdiness.
Remember that the front of the stand is where the horizontal cross member faces the same direction as the on/off button face and operating portion of the saw.
These wing nuts and bolts combination is what connects and secures the table saw to the stand.
There are some pre-drilled holes in the bottom of the frame of the saw. These align with the rectangular holes on stand's brackets.
The above shows the hole on the table saw's stand brackets in which to insert the bolts through.
Here is the wing nut and bolt installation.
At first I loosely installed them all to ensure proper hole alignment and bolt insertion. I then hand cranked them all down.
This decal comes stuck to the top of the saw when it comes out of the box.
This is a necessary step because below this plate there is a tag attached and the safety guard installation bracket needs to be secured in place.
This yellow cover just pops right off after turning the knob.
Nice new sharp saw blade. The tag shown here needs to be removed and the orange lever needs to be turned and the black safety anti-kickback piece needs to be pushed up to allow for the anti-kickback device to be installed.
Raise the sawblade up to it's highest position, release the orange lever and pull up the black curved bracket into position and then lock it in by tightening the orange lever.
Close up shot of the insertion point of the safety guard. The two slots provide a spot for it to sit into and lock in.
The stainless looking round stock locks into the anti-kickback plate.
Both stainless steel looking round stock portions of the safety anti-kickback mechanism get inserted into their respective slots in the black metal piece that sits behind the saw blade.
This shows it being installed and is in the unlocked position.
Once inserted into the slots, push down on the black lever on top of the mechanism to lock it in.
This lightweight aluminum piece is great. It adjusts to the width of the board you wish to cut.
It locks into place by pressing down on the gray lever as shown above. It lists some graduations as well so you can make precise cuts.
This is the finger saver. I use it religiously. It's very user friendly.
Here is it in action. Below is the full video.
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