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Ryobi Table Saw Blade Change Out | Dull Blade? Slow Board Cuts? Crooked Cuts? [RYOBI Saw Blade]


The Ryobi Table saw blade that came with the saw had seen one too many nails during my pallet project board ripping operations and was in serious need of a change out. Join my on my first stab at changing out the blade on this. I got lucky and actually picked up a brand new blade for cheap at a second hand store. Perfect for my use as my likelihood of ripping through a nail is pretty high.

The number one thing to do is make sure the saw is unplugged, above all else. Next is locating the spanner wrenches that come with the saw. They've conveniently got a place for them on the underside of the main deck of the saw. Just be sure to return them there once you are done with the change out.


Here's a link to one on amazon (paid link):

DEWALT 10-Inch Miter / Table Saw Blades, 60-Tooth Crosscutting & 32-Tooth General Purpose, Combo Pack (DW3106P5):


Step 1 is to make sure you have the saw unplugged. I found a nearly brand new blade at a second hand store for $1.50 so I was perfect for ripping pallet boards. I ended up hitting a few nails with it and had to change it out again but did get it's money's worth out of it. After doing this once I was quickly able to change it out again for a new one to make some finer precision cuts for a shiplap job.

The next step in this process is to remove the kick back guard. This is done by flipping the black plastic switch on top of the guard away from you.

It is easily removable so now your table top should look like this. Set it aside for later reinstallation.

Now the yellow cover must be removed. This is done by turning the gray knob to the left.

Once the gray knob is turned to the left it will lift right off the top of the saw.

The holding nut is where you will put one of your spanner wrenches that come with the saw.

On the other side of the blade is where you will put the second spanner wrench (over the hub with flats) that comes with the saw. This holds the shaft in place so that the nut may be loosened.

Both spanner wrenches are conveniently located under the table top secured by a plastic gray nut.

The plastic gray nut just unthreads allowing the spanner wrenches to be moved.

These are what they both look like. I made a mental note to be sure to return them once I was done as they could easily be misplaced. It's nice the saw has an easily accessible designated place for them to be stored.

The box ended wrench goes over the securing nut as shown.

With the larger spanner wrench on the hub and the smaller one on the securing nut, apply counter-torque to loosen the nut.

Once the nut is loose, removed both wrenches and unthread the nut by hand. Try not to drop it down into the sawdust catcher like I did.

It's most effective if you slow down the unthreading once you get to the end so as to allow you grab the nut without dropping it. If you happen to drop it, it's fairly easily retrievable. I just pushed it out of the sawdust slot below with one of the wrenches.

At first change out the blade acts like it doesn't want to come off. I gave it a little tap with a mallet to break the tension and it came loose with ease.

Since I was using a second hand blade with no packaging specifications for the new installation I did a dummy check and made sure the diameters were the same for both the center hub diameter and the outside diameter.

The new blade reinstallation process is exactly the same as the removal. The threads are standard righty tightly lefty loosey. The securing nut will tighten to the right (clock-wise). Once tight, install the yellow cover and kick back guard back into place.

I gave the new blade a test run and it worked like a champ. Back in business!!



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